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DxO PhotoLab 3 – Realistic Local Adjustments

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hello I’m Robin Whalley
welcome to Lenscraft today I’m responding to a frequently requested
topic can I explain how to use the photolab local adjustments to do this I’m
using an image I shot at the weekend with my sony rx10 this is a first
generation rx 10 camera which I bought back in 2013 it’s still a great camera
and ideal for shooting landscapes when your own walking if you look over at the
metadata panel you can see that photolab has recognized the camera and the
lens when I checked the installed DXO modules I can see that I have the correct raw
module installed this is important if you want to achieve the best results
from photolab let’s compare the image on screen to the
uncorrected view you can see the difference the lens
Corrections making the vignette correction also uses the lens module with this image I think the vignette
correction removes something so I’m actually going to disable it
I’ve also turned off the smart lighting I don’t like the effect this is having
on the image and I think it’s much better without it
checking the effect of Clearview module though you can see how effective this is
at removing the mist from the scene once the default adjustments too strong
I do like the effect on the trees and will make use of that with the local
adjustments now I’m not going to change any more of
the adjustments they’re all at the default and I want to keep them like
that because I want to focus this video on using local adjustments to make our
change a local adjustment in photolab we need to activate the local adjustment
module you can do this by clicking the button at the top of the screen you then see a message telling you that
you’re making local adjustments there’s also a closed and reset button at the
bottom of the screen along with some mask controls to add a new local
adjustment right click anywhere on the image this displays the tool selector
where you can pick the tool or feature you want to use there’s really only
three types of tool that we can work with to make selections in photolab
first we have the gradient tool this is best used for making life selections
that run to the edge of the frame we then have control points which makes
circular selections this is best for creating larger selections anywhere
inside the frame it’s also great for creating natural blending adjustments
finally we have the brush tools where you can paint your selection onto the
image this is good for small or large selections that have an irregular shape
you’ll also see that there are two versions of the selection tool we had
the regular brush and also an auto mask option the auto mask option selects
automatically the areas based on what you’re painting over we then have some
other tools to help you such as the eraser tool we can use this to remove
areas of the selection that we make if we go wrong whilst creating our
selections on masks we can use the reset option to start over again
finally there’s an option to add a new mask each time we draw a new selection
we should add a new mask for that selection the masks act like layers and
we can use them to build up complex selections and help blend our effects
overall into the image I’ll show you this shortly when we’re drawing the
masks as not all of the tools create masks automatically one final point
that’s worth mentioning is the help option in the center
this turns on the help message which can then be useful Isham not familiar with
the tool you’re trying to use I’m now going to make my first selection of the
reflections in the water because this is a rectangular area that runs off the
edge of the frame I’m going to use the graduated filter to make the selection find the point
where you want the selection to end no you can click and draw continue to hold
down your mouse as you drag and draw the gradient when you release the mouse
button the gradient ends you can now move the selection around by clicking
and dragging this point if you click and drag the smaller point
you can change the direction as well as the size of the gradient each time I
click and drag I’m going to draw a new gradient these then appear over on the right side
of the screen in the local adjustments panel this was a new feature introduced in
photolab 3 so you may not see it in your version notice how each selection that I
made has its own mask in this list earlier I mentioned there’s a reset
button on the selection tool if I right click on the image you can see it
be careful if you decide to use this as it deletes all the selections you’ve
made not just the ones that you’re working on if you want to delete a
single selection use the dustbin icon over here let’s go back to selecting and
adjusting the reflection to do this I’ll apply the clear view
adjustment then I will increase the colors with the
saturation and vibrancy sliders if I use the compare button you can see
the difference this has made but look at the reflection of the
waterfall over on the left this is no far too clear when you consider the
waterfall is more distant and higher than the trees it should be shrouded in
mist we can fix this by using the arrays brush tool to remove part of the
selection in that area of the lake to do this I’m going to use a low-flow
and opacity setting together with a high feather that allows me to make multiple
brushstrokes carefully you notice how this has helped to blend the
correction and makes it much more believable next I’m going to use a control point to
select the trees along the edge of the reservoir I’ll start by adding a single
control point if I use the show mask option at the
bottom of the screen I can see what’s being selected the light areas show me what’s being
selected by the control point notice the software automatically blending the
selection into the areas surrounding it the selections determined by the area
that’s beneath the center of the control point as you move the control point
it changes the selection when the selections in place I’ll turn
off the show mask option I can now make my adjustments using clear view and
micro contrast to make the trees clearer in this area you I can also increase the colors using the
vibrancy in saturation sliders you may have noticed that as I’m doing
this the equalizer I’m using has three groups of sliders we have a little light
color and detail this is to help organize the different sliders making it
easier for you to find the one you want now that I’ve made my adjustment to the
first control point I can add additional control points to make of the selections unlike with the graduated filter each
control point I add becomes part of the same selection or mask this allows me to
build up a selection along the edge of the reservoir until I’m happy all the
control points that I add have the same settings to keep the adjustments
believable notice that I don’t go all the way down to the left with the
selection the trees there are further from the camera so they should have a
lower contrast and saturation in these conditions finally I want to emphasize
the fog on top of the hills I’ll do this by adding another graduated filter to
select the area I can then increase the exposure and
reduce the contrast in color the area’s now appearing much more foggy
but I had feeling that I’ve created to regular a selection using the gradient I
can use the eraser tool again to fix the selection and make it appear more
natural to check the effect of just this layer I
can use the visibility icon on the layer in the local adjustments panel the only tool that I haven’t
plane is the automated mask I’ll use this to adjust the grass around the
center of the image here it’s become a little bit unbelievable in this bit too
bright noticed the brush has an inner and an
outer circle notice the brush has an inner and an outer circle the outer
circle shows the area where you’re painting over to make a selection the
center circle represents the area the software uses to select and sunport the
image and it creates a selection in the other areas based on what it’s sampled
to select the grass properly I need to first zoom in to that area so I can work
more precisely this helps make sure that I can paint
over the grass with just the central area of my brush if I know increase the exposure you’ll
see what the automatic selections done now I can adjust the grass to reduce the
contrast and the saturation to make the grass more believable using the compare button you can check
the overall effect from all the local adjustments I’m sure you’ll agree that
you can create some very believable enhancements by understanding how to use
the local adjustments properly once you’re happy close the local adjustments
if you decide later that you want to make a change just click the local
adjustment button again you can then go in and select the adjustment that you
want to affect and make changes if you found this video useful please share it
with others I’m Robin Whalley you’ve been watching
Lenscraft i’ll see you next time for another video

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8 thoughts on “DxO PhotoLab 3 – Realistic Local Adjustments”

  1. Marc Synwoldt says:

    A very welcome and useful addition to your existing PhotoLab tutorials, including some of the new features in v3.

  2. Kemer Thomson says:

    This would have saved me a lot of time and experimentation. Getting clear explanations of DxO features has been a challenge. One quick comment: the local adjustments popup in the upper left corner can be turned off with the "i" key; this is not real obvious. Also, the local adjustments help menu is toggled with the "e" key.

    I'm finding I like DxO's local adjustments more and more as I understand them and gain proficiency. You suggestion on lowering flow and opacity with the eraser and brush is very helpful.

  3. Chris Klug says:

    Great video, thank you. Are you planning any videos on the new version of the Nik collection? I’m not sure exactly what has changed in this version, and while I normally buy every Nik update, I’m not sure about this one. What do you think?

  4. Steve Hallam says:

    Very useful, thanks Robin.

  5. The PNW Rider says:

    Thank you Robin for doing this.

  6. AscendtionArc says:

    Thank you for the video. As it's half price right now (20% better than the adverts I've been flooded with since its released), I was wondering whether you think it's worth upgrading to photolab 3, from 2. I ask as, although I bought photolab because I wanted to support the company, their behaviour this year seems like it might have been less generous to users than before the restructuring and this upgrade, which seems to only include two tools and UI upgrades, seems more like an update, than a full mainline upgrade.

  7. CPU UK says:

    If I have lens correction on within the camera, will Photolab use the already corrected RAW or will it remove the correction and apply its own?

  8. norrinRadd026 says:

    Excellent Tutorial.

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